How To Sew Bias Tape
What you need to sew bias tape
- straight pins
- a project with a raw edge/hem
- sewing machine
The shirt I am adding bias tape to is the Ma Cherie Tunic, a great pattern by Winter Wear Designs. The absolutely darling fabric combo is from Mabel Madison, a supplier of high quality poplin fabric. BTW, if you haven’t sewn with poplin fabric, read all about it HERE.
So, the reason I wanted to add bias tape to the already super cute Ma Cherie Tunic was, because I loved the star print fabric that much that I wanted to have it on another place on this tunic besides the neckline and sleeve hems.
Let’s get started
You can literally add bias tape to anything you like that doesn’t have ruffles (although you could add it to ruffle hems if you really would like). The only modification you want to make is to adjust the length, that is important for garments that should fit correctly in length such as tops, dresses, skirts and pants. This tunic normally has a folded hem so I took off the seam allowance from the fabric and that was it. It was ready to get bias taped.
NOTE: my “bias” tape in this post is actually NOT cut on the bias. A reader made myself aware of that I never mentioned that lol…so thanks!! You can cut a simple strip of fabric along the edge if you are not using it on curved edges!! For curved edges you should cut it on the bias.
Step 1: Place the bias tape (or straight cut fabric tape) underneath the fabric with the two folds facing down and the single fold of the bias tape facing up, towards the fabric.
Here is a close-up of how the bias tape is pinned to the wrong side of the fabric. The upper fold of the bias tape is still folded.
Step 4: With a straight stitch on wovens and a stretch stitch on knit fabrics, sew along the RIGHT side of the fold/crease. You can keep a seam allowance of 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Just don’t sew along the crease, only right next to it.
To continue with the tutorial please click on page 2 below!